Hals, or salt and matter; pelagos, that is, expanse and image; thalassa as an experience; but also the vastness of the pontos and unfathomable depth of the laitma. He knows how to explore all the dimensions of the Mediterranean, already surveyed by the ancient Greeks, the cuisine of Mauro Uliassi, now consecrated in the empyrean of world catering. An industrious miracle for a self-made chef, who naturally ascended from the checkered tablecloths of the trattoria to the three stars and the 50 Best along with his sister Catia, queen of the room. The merit is of an original formula, made of sentimental connection with its customers, learned in the family bar and celebrated in the rites of a profound marquis, at times peasant and never elitist; untiring technical and gustatory research, conducted in a collegial manner within the framework of a real Lab; enhancement of the human factor in daily work. Without sacred monsters on the CV, apart from a fleeting passage from Ferran Adrià, who taught him the value of freedom in a Spain still post-Franco. Among his anomalies, so to speak, there is also that of devoting himself entirely to a single restaurant, without spin-offs, catering or consultancy. But the news is on the agenda. “Med Cook is an excellent event, where cooks can come together to reflect on the good, the healthy and the right, as Carlo Petrini said. So that what we do today is not detrimental to future generations. We have to ask ourselves questions, create relationships with suppliers, question our habits, confront ourselves with sensitive and competent people. A commander of the Senigallia harbor master’s office, for example, pointed out to me how old reusable plastic fish crates were more sustainable than polystyrene, which is hardly compostable, not biodegradable and bulky”.